Northloom
Northloom Minneapolis Knob and Tube

Service · Whole-House Rewiring

Whole-House Rewiring for Older Minneapolis Homes

Most rooms still on the original wiring? We replace every branch circuit with new grounded cable, the knob and tube and everything spliced into it since, under one permit and its inspections.

Last Updated: November 8, 2026

Basement ceiling with four new white cables stapled along a joist toward a new gray breaker panel, empty porcelain tubes left in the joists beside them
New runs climb from an open basement ceiling. Once we prove the old conductors dead, they can stay on their knobs.

Most of your rooms still run on the original wiring, an inspector or an insurer has noticed, and patching it one fault at a time no longer makes sense. That’s when a whole-house rewire is the right job.

At Northloom Minneapolis Knob and Tube, we rewire whole houses in Minneapolis, St. Paul and the nearby suburbs. We take every branch circuit out of service: the original knob and tube, the cloth-covered cable added later, and the ungrounded extensions spliced into both. New grounded cable takes their place, from the panel to every light, switch and receptacle.

If only a few original circuits are left, partial replacement costs less and opens fewer walls. That’s why we never price a full rewire before we’ve traced your circuits.

What happens when we first come out?

The first visit is a survey of your circuits. A home inspection or an insurer’s questionnaire can tell you knob and tube is present. It can’t tell you which runs still carry power or what has been spliced into them.

At your fuse box or panel
We work out which rooms each circuit feeds and which circuits are still on original wire.
Attic and basement
Then we go up into the attic and down to the basement ceiling, to see the old conductors, any later splices and any insulation lying on top of them.
Access
We map the routes new cable can take, because those routes decide how many of your walls get opened.
What you get
A written scope: the circuits we’ll replace, the ones we’ll disconnect and the patching the price includes.

If you only need the answer and not the work yet, we do the same survey on its own as a knob and tube inspection.

Why replace the newer wiring too?

Fixing knob and tube one fault at a time keeps the oldest wire in service and adds another splice to it. A whole-house rewire replaces circuits instead: every run from the panel to its devices, whatever it’s made of.

Your house has probably had decades of owners, and their additions stay live unless the rewire takes them too:

  • A kitchen outlet added on cloth-covered cable and tied into an attic run
  • A basement circuit extended with ungrounded cable from an original one
  • A water heater, a bathroom fan or a window air conditioner fed from the nearest old circuit

Each of those joins is a weak point, and most are hidden in an attic, a ceiling or a wall cavity. We treat every circuit the same way, traced, replaced and disconnected at the source, so that afterward you can say nothing original is left energized.

That layering is the norm here, not the exception. Minneapolis property records show about 70% of the city’s one- to three-unit buildings were built by 1939, and the share passes 85% in Powderhorn and Longfellow.

Where will the new outlets and circuits go?

A rewire is when your house catches up with the current National Electrical Code, which Minnesota adopts without amendment. We draw the new layout from the circuit map, room by room, before any cable is pulled.

Room What the new circuits include
Kitchen At least two 20-amp small-appliance circuits for the counters, with ground-fault and arc-fault protection
Bathroom A 20-amp circuit for the receptacles, with ground-fault protection
Laundry Its own 20-amp circuit, with ground-fault and arc-fault protection
Bedrooms, living and dining rooms, hallways Arc-fault protection on every new circuit
Basement and outdoor receptacles Ground-fault protection

Original wiring often fed a whole floor from one circuit, with one or two receptacles a room. We add receptacles where your furniture and appliances actually sit, so extension cords and power strips stop doing the job wiring should. Every receptacle, switch and fixture connects to a grounded circuit, which is what makes a three-prong outlet mean something. The guide to what replaces knob and tube covers cable types and devices.

Will you have to open up my walls?

Some, but far fewer than most people expect. We run new cable through the hollow spaces your house already has, and we open a wall only where something inside it stops the cable, or where a new box will sit.

From the attic
Above the top floor, we drop cable through the top plate into each stud bay.
From the basement
Below the first floor, we bring it up from the basement ceiling through the bottom plate.
Between floors
Second-floor runs cross the floor in between through closets, chases and walls that stack. Taller houses need more of this: in Uptown, about three in four of the older homes have two or more stories.
Where walls open
At a fire block, a diagonal brace, a header over a door, or the spot for a new box.

Original plaster and lath change how we work more than what we do, and plaster-wall rewiring explains how we plan and patch openings.

Do I need a new panel too?

Usually, yes. The panel is the last thing we change and one of the first things we decide. Arc-fault and ground-fault breakers take spaces, and if you’ll run a range, a dryer, central air or a car charger, you may need a larger service on top of new circuits.

We put new circuits in first and switch them over one at a time, so your house keeps power on its old equipment until the final day or two. A service change brings in Xcel Energy to disconnect and reconnect the meter, and we build that appointment into the schedule. The panel upgrade page covers sizing and location.

Who inspects the work?

That depends on which side of the city line your house sits, not the mailing address.

Where your house is Who inspects Permit fee for a typical rewire
Minneapolis Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry $191 for 15 to 30 circuits in an existing one-family home; $226 with a new service
St. Paul City of Saint Paul Department of Safety and Inspections $15 a circuit, $85 minimum, $85 for a service, plus a $1 surcharge
Other suburbs The state, or one of the roughly 66 Minnesota cities with their own electrical inspection Confirmed for your address
Before work starts
The permit request goes in at or before the start of work. Work begun without it carries a state investigation fee on top of the permit.
Rough-in
An inspector sees the new wiring before any of it is covered by plaster, drywall or insulation.
Final
A second inspection once the devices, the panel and the switch-over are done.

Minnesota’s homeowner permits only cover an owner living in a single-family house, so on most rewires the permit is pulled by the contractor. The permit guide walks through each step.

Who patches the walls, and what isn’t included?

Your written scope says who closes each opening and to what finish: patched and ready for paint, or left clean for your own plasterer or painter. Painting, wallpaper and decorative plaster are usually outside an electrical scope, and we name them either way so you can compare two quotes fairly.

We don’t take on aluminum branch wiring from a later era, low-voltage lighting or data cabling, or a repair to a single old circuit that leaves the rest of the original system in place.

Can we stay in the house while you work?

Most families do. We move floor by floor or room by room and tell you each day’s outages ahead of time.

Winter
Your furnace and its blower stay on a working circuit through every stage, which matters in a January that averages 16.2°F.
Kitchen and bedrooms
We switch these over early, so cooking and sleeping rooms are back on new wiring first.
Dust and openings
We cover floors and close or protect openings at the end of each day.

The guide to living at home during a rewire covers what each stage feels like.

What does a whole-house rewire cost?

Our typical range for replacing knob and tube in a whole house is $12,000 to $36,600, before panel work and wall finishing. Where your house lands depends mostly on how many original circuits are still live, then on access, plaster, the number of stories and the panel. We price your house from its traced circuit list and give you a written estimate before any work is booked. The Minneapolis cost guide breaks a price into its parts, and the cost estimator gives you a range for your house in a couple of minutes.

What's included

  • Tracing every circuit from the fuse box or panel to the rooms it serves, drawn on a circuit map
  • A written scope listing each new circuit, each old circuit to be disconnected and the patching the price covers
  • New grounded cable to every receptacle, switch and light, with new boxes where the old ones are too shallow
  • Arc-fault and ground-fault protection wherever the code calls for it
  • Kitchen, bathroom and laundry circuits laid out for the loads a house carries today
  • The request for electrical inspection, the rough-in inspection before anything is covered, and the final
  • Every old circuit disconnected at its source and tested dead
  • A typed panel directory and a written record of what was replaced, for an insurer, a buyer or an insulation crew

Whole-house rewire, partial replacement or removal

QuestionWhole-house rewirePartial replacementRemoval of dead runs
Fits whenOriginal circuits are still live in most roomsEarlier owners replaced most circuits and a few original ones remainTracing shows the old runs are already dead
What changesEvery branch circuit, original and later wiring alikeOnly the circuits proven live on original wiringNo new circuits; exposed dead runs come out
Wall openingsOn every floor, set by the framingIn the rooms those circuits serveUsually none in finished walls
PanelOften needs more spaces or a larger serviceUsually fits the existing panelNo change
Record you keepA statement that no knob and tube remains energizedA written boundary showing where new wiring stopsWhat came out, and what stays in place dead

Guides behind this service

What happens after I call?

You call us

Tell us what was found and where: an inspection report, an insurer's letter, a stalled insulation job. Photos and the report help.

We evaluate

We trace your circuits, check the panel and look at the attic and basement runs. You get a written scope that separates electrical work from patching.

We do the work

We get the permit in place, route cable in stages, and have the rough-in inspected before your walls are closed.

We close it out

Final inspection, a labeled panel, and the circuit record you will need for an insurer or a sale.

What this work looks like

Small opening cut through a plaster wall above the baseboard, wood lath visible, drop cloth on the floor
Before
The same wall after the work: a new outlet where the opening was, plaster patched and painted to match
After

Not sure your whole house needs it?

We trace the circuits and tell you. Some houses that look like a full rewire need far less, and some need more.

Get an Estimate

Whole-House Rewiring: questions

How long does a whole-house rewire take in a Minneapolis house?

It depends on how many floors you have, how open the attic and basement are and how many original circuits are still live. The rough-in and final inspections add their own scheduling on top of the working days. Your written scope gives the expected working days and when each inspection falls, so you can plan rooms and outages around them.

Is a whole-house rewire worth it if the knob and tube still works?

Working isn't the test. The original wiring has no equipment ground, you can't blow insulation in around it, many insurers ask whether any is still energized, and a century of later splices sits on top of it. We trace how much of your house still runs on it, and that number decides whether a whole-house job or a partial one makes sense.

Can a few original circuits stay while the rest are replaced?

Yes, that's partial replacement, and it fits when we find most of the house already rewired. We write the boundary down: which circuits are new, which original ones remain and where they run. Ask your insurer first, because some carriers want to know whether any knob and tube at all is still energized.

Will the new circuits work with the fuse box the house has now?

New circuits need arc-fault and ground-fault protection, which usually comes from the breaker, so a whole-house rewire almost always ends at a breaker panel. Whether your service also gets larger is a separate decision, made from what the house will run: a range, a dryer, air conditioning or a car charger.

What should I have ready before asking for a whole-house estimate?

Whatever started the question: the inspection or TISH page, your insurer's letter, or an insulation bid that stopped at the attic, plus any deadline attached to it. Photos of the fuse box or panel, the attic and the basement ceiling help, and so does anything you know about past remodels. None of it is required, but each one makes our first visit shorter.

Get an estimate for whole-house rewiring

Tell us what the inspection report, insurer or insulation crew said, and where your house is. We'll take it from there.

(612) 509-6597

Monday to Friday, 8 AM to 6 PM; Saturday and Sunday, 9 AM to 2 PM. Outside these hours, emergency calls only.

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